Drilling and Pinning New Scales

Hi;
I bought some really nice scales on the "bay". I am going to put them on blades that have some rather warped scales. My question is: I do not have a vice or a drill press. I do however have a Dremel with all the bits, a small jewelers ball pein hammer, and a cordless drill, with all the bits (sounds like the box on "Chopped") .

Would love to hear all advice and links to drilling and pinning as I don't want to screw up the scales or crush them. They are not to fragile, like MOP, or old and brittle like Bakelite. I thank you

It's very important to ensure you drill straight in both planes - and that both scales are matched. I always drill both scales at the same time when they are taped together. If you don't have a drill press you will just have to do it by eye - maybe you can get a small clamp so that at least you are using both hands on the drill.

Drilling the hole straight in both planes is critical as UKRob advises. I would think that you should be able to tape the scales together; attach them to a board, plank, 2x4 via C-clamp or tape them if you must (horizontal plane); carefully measure and mark your hole location; center punch the hole location; and carefully drill the hole making sure that the drill is vertical (vertical plane). The old carpenter's rule applies here: Measure twice and cut once. IE for you it will be: Measure twice and "Drill" once. Good Luck!

Wow, both great ideas. Never thought of taping yo a 2x4, that makes all the sense in the world. What are the chances of the scales splintering . Btw here are the scales.

Attachment 194523

Sorry, here is a better picture of the scales Attachment 194524

A pin vise with a split point drill bit is the bomb for hand drilling and marking drill points. If you don't have one you should get one. Since the acquisition of mine I would not ever want to be without it for scale and pin work. It is hands down the best money I have spent on razor restoration tools and they are extremely affordable.

In addition to taping scales you can use a carpenters square to ensure you are holding your rotary tool or drill 100% perpendicular to ensure your holes are perfectly straight.
I am working in a limited space scenario and I bought a rotary tool workstation (milescraft) that is a drill press for my rotary tool. Havent looked back. It was like $35 with shipping from amazon. Its great for drilling out pins and drilling pin holes in scales.

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Originally Posted by RezDog

A pin vise with a split point drill bit is the bomb for hand drilling and marking drill points. If you don't have one you should get one. Since the acquisition of mine I would not ever want to be without it for scale and pin work. It is hands down the best money I have spent on razor restoration tools and they are extremely affordable.

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IIRC, mine was less than $6.00usd

Just a word of warning, but drilling straight depends on everything, including the scales, being at 90 degree angles to each other. For instance, if you make your own scales you have the benefit of drilling them before you shape the upper surface of each - this practically ensures straight drilling, drill them on a bit of wood with a split tip drill like previously mentioned and you stop the under scale from having a ragged appearance.

However, when the scales are already shaped, particularly those that are rounded in cross section, then they tend to 'rock and roll' a bit and you have to take particulary care with waht type of supporting measures you use.

Another problem with pre-shaped scales is that they tend to be wider in the centre for, say, half of the scales length, and then taper to tip and wedge at the ends - sloping, if you prefer. Press the pivot pin end flat to your drill bed and drill it and you will see that the wedge end has lifted and you have an inclined hole for the pivot pin (closer to the scale tip on one side, further away on the other).

This type of error usually applies to drill presses, hand drilling has a whole set of other issues.

Regards,
Neil

Just a habit of mine: When making the wedge, open out the hole top and bottom so it can tilt in the direction it needs to and does not trap one scale and make it impossible to get all lined up properly. Think of an "X" or )( for the shape of the hole looking from the end of the wedge. Also, leave your wedge a bit oversize till you have fitted every thing and then finish it carefully after pinning.
Have fun!
~Richard

All the more usefulness, of the pin vice.

This is a great tip and will keep the scales from splitting, go slow when pinning and use lite taps.

Seen a few of these scales on the bay and most were bent or had issues

But hope they work out for you look forward to seeing the finnished items

Wow, this is so much great advise, I should of come here when I was learning to straight shaved, wouldn't of looked like I used a lawn mower on my face. Yes, Substance one of the scales was bent, other two are perfect. Guess buyer beware applies. Please keep the advise coming. I will go buy a pin vise today.

Just a tip.

I use rubber cement to keep the scales together while I drill the holes and do the finish sanding.

When shape sanding the scales is "almost done", I carefully open up the wedge end of the scales and mount the wedge using a 1/16 bolt(s) and nut.
I then finish sanding the scales and have the wedge end matching the wedge.

I then dismount the wedge and rub off the rubber cement and finish the scales.

I got the idea for rubber cement from Lynn in one of his posts.

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Originally Posted by ControllerBob

Wow, this is so much great advise, I should of come here when I was learning to straight shaved, wouldn't of looked like I used a lawn mower on my face. Yes, Substance one of the scales was bent, other two are perfect. Guess buyer beware applies. Please keep the advise coming. I will go buy a pin vise today.

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The split tip drill bit is important too You may find the pin vise a little frustrating without one.

One thing that might help, you can use a drill bit that is slightly larger than your pin diameter. This tiny amount of "slop" will make proper alignment less of an issue and allow for a slighty misaligned hole. It won't have a negative effect on how solid the pivot pin is, especially when the wedge is glued into place.
FWIW I use a pin vise as was already recommended.

If you have a Dremel, they make a workstation which is a mini press. You vertically mount your Dremel in it and you have yourself a baby press. They are only about $40. Save yourself a lot of heartache and trouble and pick one up. You can also rotate it 90 degrees, get some small buffing wheels and use it to buff blades as well. I used on a lot when I moved to a new home and my wood shop was in storage.

Dremel Workstation, 220-01 - Walmart.com

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Originally Posted by TwistedOak

One thing that might help, you can use a drill bit that is slightly larger than your pin diameter. This tiny amount of "slop" will make proper alignment less of an issue and allow for a slighty misaligned hole. It won't have a negative effect on how solid the pivot pin is, especially when the wedge is glued into place.
FWIW I use a pin vise as was already recommended.

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I went 5/64th drill for 1/16th pin. A 1/16th drill hole can be too tight and scale splitting can result from the over press. I hold my scale together with bands of cellophane tape. It can protect scale if needed and give more to hold on too.